It’s hard to overstate how gratifying London is. If you’re able to fly non-stop from the midwest or east coast, turn your next four-day weekend into a five-day adventure—seven or eight hours, and you’re in one of the world’s greatest food cities. And, of course, the centuries of culture, the beautiful cityscape, the amazing public transportation; I digress.

Admittedly, this itinerary is comprehensively food-focused with a sprinkling of other sights and attractions. There are better guides if you are visiting London for the first time; this might be a better second, third, or fourth visit.

Day 1: Wednesday

Land Wednesday morning at Heathrow, and drop off your bags at Leman Locke. Opened in 2016, it was at the beginning of the aparthotel concept, and it’s Locke’s first hotel in their portfolio. This isn’t the Ritz or Claridge’s, but it’s exceptionally well-appointed, convenient (50m from Aldgate East station!) and the rooms come fully equipped with a real kitchen, which I’ve only used to make tea. The sky-level rooms are worth the upgrade for spectacular views to the south.

The flight I’ve taken frequently lands at or before 6:00am in London, so even after dropping your bags off, it’s a great opportunity to get some coffee and a snack. Do so directly in the lobby at Leman Locke—the in-lobby coffee bar is a far cry from stereotypical (bad) hotel coffee bars.

The essence of the first full day in London is to stay awake; after coffee, walk to Tate’s Bankside location, Tate Modern. It’s a beautiful stroll from Aldgate, terminating with an all-too-known photo-worthy passage across the Millennium Bridge. Tate’s ongoing (and free) displays Performer and Participant, Start, and Artist and Society are well worth the time as a first-time visitor, and even better if you’re trying to avoid falling asleep in public. The building itself is a masterpiece; the immersive turbine hall is a spectacular canvas for large installations, and sometimes, election victories.

Already in Bankside, get lunch in Southwark at Bao Borough, about a 10 minute walk from the Tate Modern. (Reservations virtually required at lunch—do so in advance.) Enjoy some excellent bao and an oolong beer. Alternatively, wander around Borough Market for lunch, but I find that the decision paralysis, paired with big crowds, is chaotic. (Elliot’s is also a great lunch stop in the area.)

At 2:00pm, check in at Leman Locke for a break, shower, and to get situated for the week ahead. On the way to dinner, catch a third wind at The Culpeper on Commercial Street. It’s one of our favorite stops, and the ground floor is fully bar-service. Hang out with the post-work crowd, order a Camden Hells, and act like you’ve acclimated to the time change.

Finish walking up Commercial Street (20-ish minutes) and enjoy dinner at Padella Shoreditch, one of the best all-round values for dining in London. Tim Siadatan of Trullo fame opened Padella in 2016, first at their small Borough Market restaurant. The Shoreditch location is my favorite as you’re able to book up to four weeks in advance. If you’re a solo diner or a party of two, you can specifically request a booking at the chef’s counter—make sure to do this. Seeing this kitchen in action never gets old. To top it off, it’s rare to be able to get a cocktail, salad, and plate of pasta this good for around £30. After dinner, go to bed.

An assortment of dishes at Padella throughout the years. From left to right: coppa and radichhio salad with mint; tagliarini with dry chilli, garlic & pangrattato; pappardelle with Dexter beef shin ragu and stracci with slow cooked sweet onion, thyme and gorgonzola fonduta; cavatelli with anchovy and cavolo nero.

Day 2: Thursday

Catch the Hammersmith & City line to Barbican, where architecture tours are offered most days throughout the entire estate—book this in advance as a peek into the conservatory are included on this tour sometimes. The history and architectural significance of this expansive estate can seem overwhelming, and the tours are a wonderful way to comprehend the massive scale. Of the many amazing parts to the Barbican, one of the favorite things I learned was how the entire concrete exterior was manually chiseled (with a machine) which took years to complete, providing the distinct concrete texture that is one of brutalism’s shining examples.

After the tour, take the Hammersmith & City line to Edgware Road and stop for lunch at The Royal Oak. Their weekday lunch menu is a fantastic value, and make sure to enjoy the chorizo scotch egg. It’s a place I’ve spent plenty of time at the bar on weekend afternoons by myself or with friends.

Spend the afternoon in Marylebone walking, shopping, and enjoying some spectacular architecture and people watching. Visit Labour and Wait for a beautiful selection of home goods and workwear; I recently purchased a Le Mont St Michel X Labour and Wait work jacket here, with kind help from their staff. Niwaki on 38 Chiltern Street is one of the most unique and beautiful hardware stores you’ll ever see; and, of course, a visit to Marylebone must include a stop at Daunt Books.

If energy permits, the Wallace Collection is a worthy conclusion to an afternoon in Marylebone, offering a ridiculous amount of antiquities, armor, sculptures, and artwork in a beautiful home.

Before dinner at Brat, visit Swift Shoreditch for a cocktail—I recently had a manhattan-inspired drink made with Cocchi Barolo Chinato, a vermouth far-too-good for a mixed drink. It was luxurious and a wonderful way to start the evening. (Reservations accepted.)

For dinner, Brat will likely be one of your top-five restaurants in recent memory. And, as is the theme in this itinerary, be sure to book in advance. The namesake dish—brat—is a whole Cornish turbot and a feast in itself. It’s incredible to watch the kitchen slowly cook these turbots whole, over coals. The bread with burnt onion butter is unfortunately life-changing, and you’ll think about it each time you have bread and butter, as are the potatoes. During our last visit, we shared a whole John Dory and beef rib, both spectacular, with the beef rib being one of the standout dishes during my time in London. Enjoy the walk back down Commercial Street, maybe with a stop at Commercial Tavern.

Scenes from Brat, including the amazing bread and butter; the whole brat (turbot) to share; and, during another visit, we shared the John Dory and beef.

Day 3: Friday

With the District Line right outside your doorstep, catch a Richmond-bound service all the way to Kew Gardens. We visited for the first time in April 2024 and will be including it on future visits to London. Obviously, the gardens were stunning, but the walk through Richmond and our time spent along the Thames were memorable. Don’t miss the Palm House, of course, and the Princess of Wales Conservatory with a remarkable collection of cacti. Aviation enthusiasts will also enjoy the morning Atlantic arrivals passing overhead to Heathrow.

During our most recent visit, we had a beautiful lunch at The Steam Packet on the north bank of the Thames. It’s about a leisurely 20-minute walk from Kew Gardens, and we were warmly welcomed by the gracious staff, all of whom poured excellent pints of Guinness.

Heading back eastbound on the District Line, alight at Sloane Square and visit the Saatchi Gallery at the Duke of York’s HQ. I’ve been fortunate to see some incredible exhibitions here throughout the years, including the spectacular JR retrospective in 2021. Tickets are not needed for the free galleries, but any visiting or special exhibitions do require tickets. From here, you can take the District Line back to Aldgate East for some rest before dinner, or walk up Sloan Street for an obligatory stop at Harrods if energy permits.

Visiting the Saatchi Gallery in 2023; a unique piece from a visit in 2019.

Trullo in Islington is one of London’s greatest restaurants, and be sure to book in advance for dinner. (I love sitting on the main level along the windows; request this in the booking notes.) It’s been an inspiration to my attempts at cooking after my first several visits; rooted in Italian fundamentals, Trullo incorporates a wonderful approach of seasonality with a British influence. I’m particular to their 45-day aged beef, usually on the menu as a T-Bone or Ribeye; it’s more than enough for two to share with a salad, pasta, and dessert. Their wine list is Italian-focused (obviously) with exceptional values compared to most restaurants. It’s a place we come back to every visit, and it feels familiar and new each time.

Dinner at Trullo in 2024, from left to right: pici with marjoram and garlic; 2019 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Montefico' Barbaresco; and, Trullo’s incredible 45-day aged T-bone with fried polenta and gorgonzola fonduta; an appropriate reaction to the T-bone.

Day 4: Saturday

Depending on how full you are from dinner at Trullo the night before, choose one of two options below:

Option 1: Take a bus from Whitechapel Road to London Fields, and head to Ozone Roasters at London Fields for a spectacular breakfast in a beautiful space; their eggs benedict on bubbles and squeak is an indulgence, proper for a Saturday morning. After breakfast, walk up the street to Broadway Market. It’s a favorite morning stop for people (and dog) watching, bookstores, art vendors, and, if you can handle it, more food after breakfast. Artwords Bookshop is cramped, but has a remarkable selection on architecture, wine, food, and photography, all with a heavy East London emphasis. You’re also just down the street from London Fields for a morning walk as well.

Saturday breakfast at Ozone at London Fields on two separate occasions.

Option 2: Sleep in, skip breakfast, and catch a bus to White Cube Bermondsey. On Saturdays, it opens at 10:00am; stop at Bermondsey Corner across the street for a coffee before exploring the gallery. White Cube is free and the spaces are cavernous with exhibitions changing frequently—be sure to check what’s on before you visit. Being in the area puts you within walking distance to Maltby Street Market, where you can pick up lunch from a number of vendors. We had some outstanding duck confit chips the last time we were here. There are some beautiful stores, spaces, and shops in the area: Cloudwater for a pint, WatchHouse for a coffee afterwards, and Provision Store for some stunning homeware goods, to name a few.

A stop at White Cube Gallery in Bermondsey.

If a sit-down lunch is more enjoyable, 40 Maltby Street is one of London’s best, if you can get in—no reservations accepted. The glass and bottle list is spectacular, and the ever-changing menu is all prepared in their small (yet efficient) open kitchen.

Selections from 40 Maltby Street in 2022; the rillettes were a standout.

If you were able to secure a reservation, head to Notting Hill for dinner at Core by Clare Smyth. We first went for lunch in the Spring of 2024, and lucked out completely—I was browsing OpenTable about a week before our trip and noticed a 12:00pm lunchtime availability and promptly booked it. Our lunch at Core was undoubtedly one of the top five meals of our life. The food was precise, beautiful, and had a warmth and personality that we still think about often. The dining room itself is also beautifully-appointed, with seats for two facing the center with a clear view of the wine service station, and, if you’re lucky, a peek of the kitchen. I would also agree with many others that the value Core offers—£245 for the Core Seasons menu—is incredible, with many three-star restaurants charging double. We enjoyed our time there with a bottle of 2020 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin En Remilly from their well-curated, clear, and informative wine list, and the sommelier was brilliant in helping us throughout the service.

Day 5: Sunday

Whether you enjoy a classic Sunday roast or not, start your day at The Bull and Last in Hampstead for lunch—you can choose to have a roast or not, all of which is delicious. It’s a warm, hospitable, beautifully-appointed main floor, and a great start to a late morning and early afternoon in the area.

Sunday roast at The Bull and Last; leaving The Magdala in late 2023.

The Parliament Hill viewpoint is a fifteen-minute walk from The Bull and Last, and, provided it’s a nice day, the scene is jovial with plenty of dogs, families, and kids running around. The last few times we’ve been up, there were plenty of people flying kites. On the way back down to the Northern Line at Belsize Park, stop for a pint at The Magdala. Their list of cask-pulled beers is a treat, and the Sunday afternoon atmosphere is energetic.

If energy permits, take the Northern Line (via Charing Cross) to Leicester Square for visit to the National Portrait Gallery. I’m grateful for museums with free admission as the burden of “getting your money’s worth” isn’t there. As frequently as I visit art museums, it feels gratifying to go with a specific purpose if you know your attention span isn’t fully up to viewing the entire collection. Or, if you’re museum-ed out, head to Soho for some shopping: Liberty London, Wax on Berwick Street, or Fortnum and Mason for the obligatory gift to bring home, to name a few.

For a last evening out, and if you’re fortunate enough to have a booking, head to The Devonshire. Pouring London’s most iconic pint of Guinness at the moment, the kitchen is the star of the operation, with their open grill-centric menu taking center stage. There was nothing to fault during our visit, from the warm greeting to the very warm grill room which we sat in; we sat literally next to the grill. The Devonshire has an impressive selection of dry-aged beef and wines, and I imagine the two would be quite excellent together. During our visit, we opted for wood-fired pork, fish, chips, a tomato tart, rillettes, and…a taste of a 1986 Chateau Latour. (The table next to us left about half the bottle, and the staff was incredibly gracious to give us and a neighboring table a taste.)

If Soho is a bit too far for a day before departure, enjoy dinner at The Culpeper; their first-floor dining room is insulated from the bustle of the ground floor and a beautiful experience. For a completely different direction, be sure to book Gunpowder just south of Spitafields Market. It’s a small space with huge flavor; think lamb chops with mint chutney, venison doughnuts, and grilled prawns.

Transportation

There are plenty of resources on the ins and outs of transportation in London; to keep it simple, I find the best luck using Google Maps and Transit. Transport for London automatically caps your fare to the best possible rate, so there’s no need to worry about buying a 1-day or 7-day pass—just tap your card (or phone) at the entry gate and use the same card to tap out throughout your entire trip.

Recently inaugurated, the Elizabeth Line is a great way to get to most destinations throughout Central and East London. When heading to Leman Locke (if you choose to stay there), take the Elizabeth Line to Whitechapel and backtrack to Aldgate East; or, if you don’t have much luggage, alight at Liverpool Street and walk 15-20 minutes.

The few times I’ll splurge on a taxi are heading back to Heathrow to return home in the early morning, and returning back from dinner at Trullo.

Other thoughts

As mentioned earlier, there are better guides for a first visit to London. And, because this guide is already so long, I omitted several other incredible restaurants: Noble Rot, Gymkhana, Mountain, and St John, to name a few. Have a great time in London.

Five Days in London